Moroccan Snail Delicacy: Savoring Andalusia's Prized Import
In the sun-drenched region of Andalusia, Spain, a culinary delight has captured the hearts and palates of locals: the Moroccan snail. This exquisite delicacy, renowned for its exceptional quality and taste, has become a highly coveted item in the southern Spanish region, with imports from Morocco reaching staggering levels.
According to data compiled by the Andalusian Ministry of Agriculture, Andalusia imported an astonishing 5,000 tons of snails from Morocco in 2023, valued at 3.8 million euros. The demand for these gastronomic treasures shows no signs of abating, as the region purchased snails worth 248,000 euros from Morocco in the first two months of 2024 alone, marking an 88% increase compared to the same period the previous year.
Morocco has emerged as a prominent market for Andalusia in this culinary field, contrasting with Spain's domestic snail farm production, which reached 605,500 kilograms last year, as reported by the Spanish National Association of Snail Breeding and Fattening (Ancec). Moroccan imports also stand out when considering Spain's estimated consumption in 2020, totaling 18,800 tons, although an increase in consumption was already noted last year.
Manuel Felipe Lopez, an entrepreneur in the snail business through his company, Caracoles Sevilla, has shed light on the allure of the Moroccan variety, known as "blanquillo." According to Lopez, this particular snail has garnered strong support in several areas of Andalusia and is considered to be of superior quality compared to traditional farm-raised snails.
Lopez explained that the population of both snails and "blanquillo" has decreased in Spain over the last 60 years, coupled with sanitary restrictions limiting snail trade, which further encourages imports from abroad. The Moroccan variety is regarded as being of "quite good" quality and "the same" as its Spanish counterpart, among other reasons.
Regarding farm production, Lopez noted that the type of snail cultivated on farms, the Helix aspersa, does not compete, at least in the Sevillian area, with the "blanquillo." He recalled that he once owned a snail farm but was forced to close it due to a lack of demand for his products, an issue he dissociates from the price difference between farm-raised snails and "blanquillo," with the latter being more economical. Lopez also mentioned that the high temperatures experienced in certain areas during this time of year hinder snail breeding on these farms.
As of last month, Andalusia had 211 registered snail farms, with Seville leading the way with 54 farms, followed by Córdoba (42), Málaga (28), Granada (27), Huelva and Almería (19), Cádiz (17), and Jaén (5). However, the Ministry of Agriculture does not rule out the possibility that some of these farms may have closed during this period.
According to a 2020 study by the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture, accurately accounting for the number of active snail farms is a challenge for the administration. The study found that only one-third of the registered farms in Andalusia were operational at the time, not including an additional 100 farms nationwide whose activity status could not be determined. As a result, the Ministry relied on data from Ancec to improve the representativeness of these figures.
Jose Antonio Marcelo, the executive secretary of the Interprofessional Organization of Farm-Raised Snails, shed light on the potential reasons behind the discrepancy in farm registrations. Marcelo explained that farm owners may be eligible for certain subsidies, such as young farmer incorporation or farm improvement plans, which require them to keep their land active for at least five years after applying for the subsidies. If these owners report that their farms are not in operation, they risk losing the subsidies. Additionally, although farm owners are required to deregister their farms from the livestock farm registry (REGA) if they are not active, not all owners who fail to comply with the regulations are subject to control for various reasons.
Despite the thriving snail farming industry in Andalusia, farm-raised snails produced in the region have limited penetration among Andalusian consumers. According to 2020 estimates from Ancec, only up to 30% of the volume is distributed within the region, while the remaining production is destined for other regions in northern Spain, where farm-raised snails have a higher implantation.
As Andalusia continues to savor the exquisite flavors of Moroccan snails, the region's culinary landscape remains enriched by this prized import, celebrating the diversity of flavors and the enduring appeal of gastronomic traditions.