A Pilgrimage of Remembrance: Moroccan Jews Celebrate the Hilloula des Tsadikim in Meknès

On the evening of Sunday, May 26th, 2024, the streets leading to the Meaara of the Old Mellah, the cemetery of the former Jewish quarter in Meknès, began to teem with life. Families, young and old alike, converged on the cemetery where the great sages lay, marking the commencement of the Hilloula des Tsadikim, the celebration of the saints.

Serge Berdugo, the Secretary-General of the Council of Jewish Communities in Morocco, stood near the cemetery's entrance, extending a warm welcome to the guests dressed in their finest attire. Murmurs of greetings and fraternal embraces filled the cool evening air. "Tonight, we gather in Meknès, a place steeped in history, established in 1679 during the reign of Sultan Moulay Ismail. This site has been a sanctuary for revered saints for generations, remaining a sacred space housing the great figures of the past, where pilgrimages and Hilloulot were celebrated until its decommissioning in the late 1920s."

The Hilloula pilgrimage is a distinctive religious tradition of Moroccan Judaism, with the cult of saints originating from the Arab-Muslim influence of the marabouts. Berdugo elaborated, "This weekend, Hilloulot are being organized all over Morocco, from Ouazzane to Beni Mellal, passing through Demnate, Taroudant, Ouarzazate, and Agadir. It's not surprising that these gatherings bring together official personalities, Muslim fellow citizens, and members of the Jewish community from all corners of the Kingdom and several foreign countries, to share these moments of piety and honor the 600 saints celebrated for their miracles."

The Hilloula des Tsadikim holds a significant place among Jews of Moroccan descent, as it pays homage to all the sages resting in this cemetery. "We seize this opportunity to celebrate their memory. As you know, several of these saints are renowned for their writings, wisdom, and influence. Last year, we erected the Wall of the Ancients, a memorial that allows us to remember our ancestors and all those who influenced our lives and shaped the most beautiful pages of Moroccan Judaism in Meknès."

Among the attendees was Sarah, who had traveled from France to partake in this night of reflection and festivities. "Each year, we eagerly await this moment. It's a chance to reconnect with our heritage and seek blessings for the coming year," she expressed, her eyes shimmering with emotion.

Having arrived a few days earlier, Sarah took the opportunity to rediscover Meknès. She wandered through the narrow alleys of the Mellah, the historic Jewish quarter, listening to her father's tales about the houses and families that once inhabited the area. "My father showed me the house where he grew up. It was moving to see this place that meant so much to him," she recounted.

While Sarah revisited her father's memories, other participants, after paying homage to the Tsadikim (saints), made their way to the Caidal tent erected in the middle of the necropolis, sharing their own journeys of rediscovery and reconnection. Esther, born in Marrakech, was deeply moved by her return to Morocco. Her eyes sparkled as she recounted her childhood and the memories passed down by her parents. "We left Morocco quite early, but my parents instilled in me their love for this country. Every evening, they would recount stories of their youth, life in Marrakech, joyous celebrations, and sacred rituals. I grew up with these tales, and today, I share them with my children, ensuring this flame never extinguishes," she narrated.

For Esther, "seeing so many people coming from all over for this celebration is incredible. It proves that our heritage is alive, and our history continues through us and our children." It was also "a return to the roots" that allowed her to revive distant memories. Her husband Eli, from the famous "Botbol" family, originally from Fez but having lived in Meknès for decades, still recalled stories his parents had told him as a child. "Our parents passed down to us the love for Morocco through joyous, convivial, and emotional rites. My children convinced me to come, even though I hadn't planned on it initially. Meknès is my hometown, an intellectual and peaceful atmosphere associated with my childhood and all the languages we learned simultaneously: Arabic, French, and Hebrew."

Eli's memories were filled with moments of joy and sharing. He reminisced about family celebrations, religious ceremonies, and moments of conviviality that had punctuated his childhood. "Coming back here is like finding a part of myself, my personal and family history. Seeing my children immerse themselves in this culture, asking questions and wanting to learn more... it's an indescribable feeling," he related.

Ariel, too, felt this profound connection to his Moroccan roots. "This is my first visit to Meknès, and I'm overwhelmed with emotion. This morning, I visited my grandfather's tomb and those of my ancestors for the first time. It's the main reason for my visit, in addition to participating in the Hilloula. I toured my parents' house, which had become a school before reverting to a residence. The current inhabitants warmly invited us to visit the place," he confided before settling at his table to savor the traditional dishes prepared for the occasion.

The festive atmosphere was in full swing. The sounds of chaâbi and chgouri music filled the night air, animated by the voices of the musicians and the applause of the guests. Young and old, they let themselves be carried away by these songs, dancing and singing together under the stars. Laughter rang out, and feet beat the ground in rhythm. As the night wore on, the excitement grew for the long-awaited moment: the candle auction. Under the large tent, the guests gathered, their eyes sparkling. The funds raised would be used for the maintenance of the cemetery throughout the year, until the next Hilloula.

The auctions began, and hands shot up enthusiastically. The patrons, driven by the fervor of the moment, vied to acquire these sacred candles. The evening continued with another solemn and emotional moment: the prayer for the royal family. The guests rose, silence fell, and the rabbis recited blessings for the health and prosperity of the Sovereign.