French winemakers turn to Morocco's argan tree amid drought challenges

Tuesday 18 March 2025 - 15:50

By: Dakir Madiha

French winemakers turn to Morocco's argan tree amid drought challenges

In the foothills of the Pyrenees, a collective of French winemakers is confronting an escalating dilemma reminiscent of challenges faced in Morocco: persistent drought conditions. Rather than waiting for climatic improvements, these vintners are exploring innovative alternatives, drawing inspiration from the resilient argan tree, which has thrived for centuries in Morocco's arid landscapes.

Vincent Connes, Philippe Morat, Jean Delmau, David Tofinos, Thomas Montes, and François-Xavier Dauré, suppliers for the Dom Brial cooperative, recognize the urgent need for adaptation in response to dwindling water resources and a decline in wine sales. A year ago, they united to explore shifting away from traditional viticulture in favor of crops more suited to the changing climate.

“We could all feel it; drought would only get worse,” Connes remarked. “Each of us had tried different approaches individually, but we realized we would be stronger together.”

The group has experimented with various crops, including pomegranates, prickly pears, pistachios, and tea trees, yet one idea emerged as particularly promising: cultivating argan trees. Tofinos suggested this after observing their prevalence in Morocco’s dry regions. “We looked at the Mediterranean and asked, what thrives in similarly arid conditions? If argan trees survive there, perhaps they can thrive here too,” a fellow winemaker explained.

However, a significant hurdle lies ahead. Argan seeds are not readily available in France, and Morocco closely guards its supply. “Bringing seeds from Morocco? That’s impossible. It’s their resource, and they have every right to protect it,” Tofinos noted. Eventually, he sourced some seeds from Spain, though he preferred to keep the location confidential.

In October, the first argan trees took root in Baixas, southern France, as Tofinos initiated the planting process, followed by Morat, Dauré, and Montes. Others are preparing to join this initiative in the coming months. An argan tree only requires 120 millimeters of rainfall annually to survive and about 200 to 240 millimeters to bear fruit, making it an ideal crop for these conditions.

The success of this experiment in the Pyrénées-Orientales remains uncertain. “We have no way of knowing,” Connes admitted. “We will need to wait five or six years to see the results. But if it works, it will change everything for us.”

In Morocco, drought continues to pose challenges for farmers who have long relied on the argan tree's resilience. Should this experiment yield positive results, it could serve as a model for adapting to water shortages in both regions.

For now, the winemakers in Baixas approach their endeavor with patience, understanding that the future remains uncertain. Their pursuit of sustainable solutions extends beyond argan, with plans to explore the potential of jojoba and macadamia trees. However, their hopes are firmly anchored in the argan tree, a symbol of resilience in Morocco and possibly in France.